September 26, 2014  15:53  |  Fashion


Photos: Vivetta Ponti

Glamourama – the Spring/Summer 2015 collection by Vivetta Ponti is a diorama of new contemporary glamour. Visions and ideas on the move are embodied in a tale on cloth which is composed of many chapters, reads again and reinterprets Jules Renard, he wrote the “Natural Stories”, illustrated by Luigi Serafini, the botany teaching tables from early 900’s, the art by Pablo Picasso and tapestry from the 60’s. A motley universe made of a plenty of constructions, textures and suggestions celebrates the nature, its little hosts and an ironic, romantic and assertive femininity.

Sharp volumes revisit the silhouette from 50’s, 60’s and 70’s, giving rise to an open dialogue between the paradigm of sartorialism and fluidity, emphasized by many lines, being soft and pulled over, short, long and oversize along with cloths, precious details and colored prints: dresses, trenches, shirts and bomber jackets, enriched by enchanting embroideries talking about fine craftsmanship. Irony as weight subtraction or rather lightness, a poetry impressed on the cloths. An alchemy of tradition and experimentation made in Italy featuring canvas, mixed to jersey to get more rigidity and a technical effect, brocade – having unusual sporty-chic details or technical contrasting edges and patchworks of its three different colors -, leather, poplin, the softness of jersey, cotton, viscose knitwear and refined creased evanescence of “cloud” organza. Clear and delicate signs depict a bucolic universe. The flowers, fruits and plants, partitioned in their parts, like the way they are numbered in the botany teaching tables, flying about butterflies, become awesome embroideries, a leitmotiv of brand. An embroidered and full of colors story, of whose palette, including bright shades of red, azure, pink, orange, green, light blue along with white, black and silver, highlights its happy, playful atmospheres enlivening it.

Different parts make its structure, including also references to the Cubist experience by Pablo Picasso. In fact the celebrated broken up female faces are interpreted in a hilarious and surreal way and also become embroidered, dark silver colored decorations as well as other body elements telling about the woman and her sensuality: the hands nails and lips, that are colored with a bright shade of red, are also embodied in fun collars and nice shoes. The complexity of tale keeps intact lightness and turns into patterns being another part of collection. Graphisms and Epicurean rituals are coming from the everyday life live again in a fun way. Polka dots, big irregular polka dots seem just like the doodles made with the marker – are embodied on the poplin of dresses and shirts, also turn into hats and are combined to hand-shaped collars and dresses featuring the shapes of female faces – and fried egg decorating the viscose knitwear. It shines a refined research in terms of design, high-end materials and craftsmanship elegantly depicting the colored and fun charm of femininity.





The 13th Kaunas Biennial