‘Aeriform’ by Iris van Herpen

July 15, 2017  14:00  |  Fashion

Iris van Herpen

Photos by Yannis Vlamos

The latest Iris van Herpen Haute Couture collection was presented in Paris on July 3rd, 2017. Titled Aeriform, designer explores nature, the anatomy of air and the idea of airborne materiality and lightness, creating negative and positive space with shadow and light.

Iris van Herpen - SwO magazine

Van Herpen also drew inspiration from the Danish underwater artists Between Music who challenge the relationship between the body and its elemental surround, in a subaquatic environment where the air is absent.

‘Their liquid voices and the subsonic darkness from Between Music overwhelmed me. It motivated me to dive into the contrasts between water and air, between outside and inside, between lightness and darkness,’ said Iris van Herpen.

Iris van Herpen - SwO magazine

Iris van Herpen - SwO magazine

Between Music have collaborated with deep sea divers, physicists and neuroscientists over many years to develop a hypnotic biophonic sound sculpture which they perform on custom-built instruments while submerged in water. Their work transcends and transforms the conventional and natural relationship between our bodies and the elements.

Air and water are the structural and visual components of the eighteen elaborate silhouettes of the collection and have influenced the development of both the textiles and garment construction.

Iris van Herpen - SwO magazine

Iris van Herpen - SwO magazine

Biomorphic structures include a feathery-light metal lace of geodesic floral patterns in collaboration with Philip Beesley, which float around the body like a silver cloud. Echo waves of mylar bonded cotton ripple across the skin mapping the surface of the body and painting its contours.

The shoes are made from a soft suede with a parametric welded metal heel, creating a delicate molecular lattice around the foot.

Iris van Herpen - SwO magazine

Iris van Herpen - SwO magazine

Iris van Herpen – “Aeriform” runway video you can watch HERE.

Styling: Patti Wilson

Casting: Maida Boina & Maxime Valentini

Make-Up: Terry Barber | MAC Cosmetics Pro Team

Hair: Martin Cullen | Streeters London

Underwater performance: Between Music

Collaborating artist: Philip Beesley

Creative consultant: Jerry Stafford & Salvador Breed

Press release: Jerry Stafford & Eugene Rabkin

Show direction: Kim Vos & Michelle den Hollander | Bdifferent

Installation production: Jonas Kraft

Show production: SixUp Paris | N6

Light design: Magnum | Olivier Boissières

Video registration: Stylianos Pangalos & Frequin

Video editing: Ryan McDaniels & Salvador Breed

Backstage video: Stylianos Pangalos | Art Director Management

Press: Nicolas Delarue | Karla Otto Paris

Frontstage photography: Yannis Vlamos

Backstage photography: Morgan O’Donovan & Molly SJ Lowe